The first food any Venetian eats when they return from a vacation is not a fancy gourmet meal, but a dirt cheap and extremely filling sandwich that we call tramezzino. Tramezzini are small bites of heavenly delight, triangular sandwiches with soft white bread with the crust removed, filled with mayonnaise and a variety of combinations, the most popular of which are: ham and eggs, tuna and olives, ham and mushrooms and shrimps and pink sauce. You will find them in any bar, the average price is 2,50 per piece and, although I know you will just want to keep eating them on and on, consider that two of those probably equal your entire daily calorie intake!
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
Before we delve into tramezzini tasting, a little bit of history. I'll begin by saying that their origin is claimed by more cities, if not even countries, but apparently they were born in England. One version ascribes their origin to the fourth Earl of Sandwich, John Montagu, known for his gambling habits, in fact it all happened one evening when he couldn't leave the table that he asked his servants to fill some bread with the leftover roast chicken and, the other players at the table, immediately copied him asking for the "same sandwich". According to another version, the invention of tramezzini is to be attributed to the Duchess of Bedford, Mrs Anna Maria Russel, who felt too hungry to wait for dinner and ordered some small tea sandwiches filled with butter and cucumber to accompany her afternoon drink. What is certain, anyway, is that the name tramezzino is Italian and was invented by Gabriele D'Annunzio. It means "the middle morning snack" (tra - mezzo, that is in the middle) and was created as an alternative to the British tea sandwiches in the Caffè Mulassano in Turin.
Well then, why is Venice so famous for something that wasn't even invented here? The reason is simple: our horrible climate! The dampness that characterizes the lagoon is ideal to maintain the bread soft and tender, to be washed down with an ombra or a birrino. Here, tramezzini are a big thing, the fillings are so generous that I have always wondered how one can fit so much food into such a small triangle.
In Venice, most bars have tramezzini and it is nearly impossible for them not to be good, so what follows is the list of places where I usually go to, but each Venetian has its own favorite, so when here...just follow your instinct!
ROSA SALVA
The first place that comes to my mind is undoubtedly Rosa Salva, both the one in Calle Fiubera and the one in campo San Giovanni e Paolo. When I was a child, it was my Saturday treat and I would always get two: asparagus and eggs (highly addictive) and tuna and eggs, while my mother always had one with shrimps and one with salmon and a thinly sliced gherkin which -according to her- gives the added kick. In this historical cafeteria and pastry shop, tramezzini are less plump than in other places, but they are longer and delicious. Their assortment includes curious combinations and is rather elegant. Rosa Salva even makes for catering events what they call Panettone di Tramezzini, their invention: a whole lot of mini sandwiches, placed one above the other, in the shape of a Panettone, the traditional Italian Christmas cake.
BAR THEATRO
Then I must mention the Bar al Theatro, known by Venetians as Bar alla Fenice because it is just in front of the Opera house. This bar is my personal favorite and my husband’s too. Now, the assortment is endless, but my drug is called porchetta and radicchio. Al Theatro looks very fancy, in fact the restaurant is quite pricey, but the bar is actually an excellent solution for a snack in the Saint Mark's district and whenever I come I usually have 2 tramezzini and one mini pastry (they have recently modernised their offer and, if you are a sweet tooth their dessert window is something to die for).
TOLETTA
Toletta is probably the most written about tramezzini bar in all of Venice and I can understand why! The size of their triangular delicacies is enormous and they have been feeding students, locals and visitors alike for at least 50 years, in fact, just next to it there are two high schools (humanities and arts) and between 10:30 and 11:00 am there are long queues of teenagers waiting to sink their teeth into one of their sandwiches. A quintessential culinary experience in Venice, a real must have!
BAR FILOVIA
My mother's favorite is Bar Filovia, just before Piazzale Roma. In foreign guides they call it Borgo Molin, but actually that is just the name of a prosecco producer that provided them with the tent! Anyway, it is a tiny bar with very little space but a huge choice of absolutely to-die-for sandwiches! My mother was pregnant and often used me as an excuse to eat them. The freshness, the choice of bread and the amazing variety makes waiting in line well worth it!
BAR TIZIANO
Located in Salizada San Crisostomo, one of the busiest streets in Venice from 10 am to 7 pm, this bar has incredibly delicious tramezzini. It is one of my best friend's weaknesses and whenever we meet I know that at some point she will ask me if I feel like a tramezzino... and I never fail to say yes! Oh yes, I forgot to mention that birrini are the tiny glasses (0,10 cl) of beer served only in certain bars in Venice (this because here it's normal to go from one place to the other, so we can't have a pint at every bar!!!!).
BIRRERIA FORST in CALLE DELLE RASSE
At Forst they have revisited the traditional tramezzini with their own offer that now, though, has become a classic. Their ones are rectangular, use thicker bread -both white and black- and include spicier flavors. My favorite is porchetta and mustard. Here the tramezzini cost 3 euros each, but they are bigger and the filling is very very generous. This is the best place for a quick snack close to Saint Mark's and it is also frequented by lots of locals.
So, if you are looking for a super budget quintessential must have food experience in Venice, go on a tramezzini tasting and let me know which was your favorite.
Buon appetito!